DIY - The scheme of my elektrofumigatora.

<b>DIY</b> - The scheme of my elektrofumigatora.

      The scheme of my elektrofumigatora.


   So, in essence, an ordinary electric heater, just bought 
malomoschnyy.Zamery sample show that the temperature of the 
metal plate is around 100 degrees Celsius (95-105 spread on the 
surface). With that on the body indicated power of 3 Watts. The 
device is simple, but just do not remember (once deciphered). In

plastic box with a fused mains plug is placed (right up to the 
plate) Heater - resistor, size - polvatta, or slightly more, 
but seems to be imported, striped, from a number of special - 
in this case, the type of refractory. There are still

LED - LED (normal, red,
AL307), can not remember how he enabled, nor is it
it does not matter ... Since the size of rezyuka-heater are 
relatively small (for the selected power), it is very strongly 
heated that and gives such a high temperature at such

modest heater. And this is precisely the need to strengthen the 
plate with an extract Chamomile (Of course, I do not know that 
there are in fact).


   When he decided to build his own, decided to do
on simple rezyukah, with the same total power. But as sumarnaya 
rezyukov power, with a reserve, allocated more power, and their 
overall size is much larger than the import rezyuka, the 
overall temperature of heating will nizhe.Chtoby pick it up, it 
is necessary to isolate the heater from the outside, except for 
hand which will be Metal plate (on

you put the plate with the extract). Then the temperature will 
rise (to establish a balance), because heat will leave only 
through the plate - and it should. Of course, in this case, the 
temperature will be higher allowable working with MLT 
resistors, and they eventually turn black for sure, but it is us

does not apply as little care soprotivleniya.Nagrevatel thus 
should work OK, t.k.tok heating will be less acceptable, and 
the heating process does not take avalanche (which can burn 
rezyuk), the current itself when heated to slightly subside, 
but overheating is not strong, although significant. 

   I decided to put the indicator, and the simplest - 2 LEDs 
included vstrechnoparallelno that ensures, at minimum 
simplicity (two parts), and more environmentally clean 
electrical circuits (balanced in AC in any direction). Among 
other things, this provides more security and inclusion

LEDs - they do not strike. I decided to include an indication 
of the mid-point heater - The safest option, no matter where 
the phase was.


   I decided to wrap the heating resistors
metal plate (which will go to the plate with the extract). Of 
course, rezyuki need to cover some heat-resistant insulation 
coating from t.k.ih heating time osypetsya and this may

cause a short circuit, but in any case, I decided to play it 
safe and made in the scheme of two (essentially symmetrical) 
fuse. Of course, such a low current, as have not found, and 
used a small carbon rezyuki (I have a lot of them turned out to 
be - old model, with a ribbon pin, green such ...). Of course, 
you can use any at 0.125 Tues 

   But if in the scheme, I do not doubt that the device as a 
whole certainly were. How successful will own heater, there 
will be enough temperatures ... 


                 Assembly.


   Found a suitable piece of unilateral
PCB, the contacts of the fork, picked up a few resistors (on 
the distribution of power, the total resistance of about 16 k), 
took the LEDs and verify all these components. Found metal 
(wrapper from batteries "AA"), several times its compressed, as 
it was warped, but in the end and remained uneven ... Chose a 
few pieces of asbestos. Designed and carved a stamp fee, 
obtochil contact plugs (to firmly laid down on board and 
well-soldered to it), obludil fee soldered contacts fork (to 
align them on the model), soldered LEDs (long selected angle for

symmetry, as a result of a broken away from the legs,
I soldered like managed - but very successful)
soldered resistors, heaters, and in the end -
Resistors - fuses.

   For electrical decided to use
old pieces of plaster (not fundamentally ...), torment, placing 
insulation between the findings, then wrapped in one layer on 
top (Of course, this is somewhat degraded thermal conductivity).


   Picked up a metal slotted for conclusions
put on the middle slot of a piece of insulation
(Not to close to the findings of light-emitting diodes),
slipped under the heater (normally get from a few times), the 
petals bent metal and the metal itself (carefully and 
symmetrically, as an integral heater and keeps only in 
soldering, but hangs on 4 findings as would not break off 
contact ...), heater rounded top and slightly compressed metal 
that he is less moving away from the heater. Ends underside of 
metal bent to the board, and therefore, the heater is not only 
hung above board (on output), but also relied on

her with one hand. As a result, the heater
was almost completely closed metal (sides and from the forks 
were slit, and could see insulation), but the metal is not fit 
sverhu.Ya obludil its petals (bottom) and the edge of the top, 
then soldered to two conclusions, which pulled both

metal edge (though not perfect).

   Nabil bottom (between the board and a metal plate heater) 
asbestos for insulation, while it is isolated metal plate from 
the board, and the heater is not hung, but a very tough lay on 
asbestos. Obludil edge metal plates and solder the two 
horizontal radius (Long O), which should push the

media with the extract, they buckled under the media size. 
Checked the circuit tester and This completes the assembly.




   The result was not the most beautiful and reliable
thing. Asbestos nothing was fixed, the heater
held only on 4-O - soldering, and
at zasovyvanii carrier it had to be
stick to it once again does not move (not to be mixed). Metal 
surface on which lay a plate-carrier, was uneven, although the 
mustache pressed very good, but they sometimes had to

prim ... plug (due to fees) are not included in the recessed 
socket. Although in general enable and disable the device was 
simple and safe. 

   When testing the device has gained only
70 degrees Celsius (and it is necessary 100). Although
mosquitoes are dead, but the effect was much weaker.
Asbestos was not ideal in this case, and
much lower fee warming herself - just these
losses and missed to gain the necessary
temperature. Since the board in place hands touch was just 
warm, it was possible to to say that too much heat escapes 
through bottom. To increase efficiency, I'm going to try some 
sort of thermal insulation material (when it will fall to me) 
Zamesto asbestos. Suitable material accurately qest, this is 
some kind of ceramics, and some types of glass may also have a 
tree as well as special and composite materials, in general, do 
not know exactly what, but to find mozhno.Problema that 
requires a layer - a few mm, and therefore the properties 
teloizolyatsii should be nailuchshimi.Konechno need

another and form-fit size, treat,
obtochit, but after a while ... I'll leave this area, summer is 
over, mosquitoes fly off (or will soon fly away) ... 

   To improve the effect (as well as the use of poluzharenyh 
plates) can drip onto the plates a few drops of water, but 
after installing the device, otherwise they swell and normally 
they do not want to insert. When This (in theory) residues of 
substances, solutions, distributed throughout the plate and 
effective "emitted" when heated. On practice, if the drop on a 
hot, old plate, a few drops of water, the aroma

it increases (or maybe, I think?). In short, just do not know, 
but I guess the positive effect of adding water. 

   Generally, as I understood, the assembly of these devices - 
it's more sporting interest than necessity (although in the 
summer, when mosquitoes would get ... have you think 
otherwise!), and easier to buy than to make yourself. True, I 
do not know how much it costs, and extra money too:

but that as anyone. I think that is easier to fix (and
refine) bought but burned-out, than to collect a new one. So 
the choice is yours: money - you are better to buy and not to 
suffer, the desire and the interest is there - try to collect, 
I think, These files will help you a bit ...



                 Mystery.


   An interesting case I had with my device. I turned it into 
an adapter for "Euro", but he's badly kept, and almost no

kontachit. I do it a few times gently
"Dockable" and eventually contact appeared -
LEDs are lit. Sometimes I see - went out, correcting ... And 
once I saw - lit only one LED. If you look at my

scheme, you will realize that this is impossible, because
if one is on, the contact is, and the other half-- to another 
indicator - should also be held. Of course, I assumed that the 
other samples (although, why would it?) or just faulty - not 
brak.Ved can also stress one half

fall into dozens of times before the other ... I just
pushed to the device (push it to the adapter away), and burned 
both of them! And the brightness of each was like more than one 
- Then. Examined the device - everything is fine holds, ie 
blame has been contact between the plug and adapter. 
Apparently, I was witness the rare case where the metal oxides 
on the surface gave the effect of the semiconductor and 
rectifying the mains voltage (This is real, t.k.nagruzka 
low-power, and the current relatively small). But once upon a 
time Similar cases were staged as the basis of different

otkrytiy.Nu how do you, what else to explain this? ...



  Last edited 6.9.2004 by KSA-7G.