DIY - advice on repair hours, Dream Cast and joystick.

<b>DIY</b> - advice on repair hours, Dream Cast and joystick.

                    1.

             Repair hours.


   When repairing elektronnomehanicheskih her watch (PLA, with 
the beeper, fulfills the momentum - a move per second), you 
should only use a quality oil for office equipment (three 
components, the absolute inertia ...). Because engine is so 
weak that not survive lithium grease (CIATIM 201),

and the clock (second hand) is almost not
twitch. While this can be lubricated with grease
hour-long piece, but very carefully ...

   As a rule, the clock Non-Repair, perhaps because the engine 
is demagnetized (Rotor), and we have another drive, t.k.vsya 
plastic mechanics and in fact does not wear ... These clocks 
require very poludohlye fresh batteries, and go until their 
voltage falls to 1.3 V. A healthy, the best, work, and to 1.1 
V, and most good designs (Our old, big wall, with a large

mikruhoy battery and also the momentum-second) and up to 0.9 V. 
In small, are everywhere complete pulse current reaches 4 mA 
(TS2005, deflection), but in fact the peak

much more, and because the eye is very
noticeable reaction instrument needle, then I expect the 
average intake of at least 0.1mA, and when the alarm clock 
(sound through pezobiper) not more than 10 mA (at 1.5 V, took 
it for the same about 7 mA at 1.2 V).



                    2.
 Repair game consoles Dream Cast.



   Often buggy and resets, and sometimes
not included for no apparent reason. Sometimes
started to work after the move the power plug.


   As it turned out later retreated contact
mains socket, right at the place of soldering,
board power supply module. The module extends along
left edge of the console and is mounted with two
screws. On the one hand it soldered
network jack, which, obviously, over time, blabbed on the 
connection plug, and soldering - may have been poorly soldered -

moved away, or workmanship fees. C
On the other hand soldered 6-pin power jack, into which, when 
you install the power module includes the pins of the bottom 
board (Main). The first flaw was eliminated jumper, solder 
directly to pin mains socket and another point board. Console, 
now includes always, but bugs have not disappeared. 

   Glitches were very spontaneous. That console is reset when 
switched on, after a few seconds to load a disc, a process that 
could last up to an hour, unexpectedly (at different times) is 
reset during a game or buggy, Wisla (of course, had a lot of 
disk errors, but they were more regular character). Sometimes

long worked without any problems, and
sometimes, though not included - do not start.

   Decided to sell it while not died. But just as it happened - 
one another gamer ("on time"). I was offered a repair, then to 
sell it (Not hoping for a good job after the fix). I did not 
want to deal with it, because no schemes, neither the 
experience nor chip was not, and it is unlikely that this is 
something simple. Was once I opened it, hoping to catch a bug 
compete meals, looked space connections and did not find 
anything suspicious (a glitch manifested very rarely), I 
decided that this marriage of a chip, and correct me not to.


   And here, finally! Completely died. Not
spinning disk. And, to my great happiness (why
and agreed to do) without indicator light
supply. Evidence of failure dramatically
increase the chance of maintainability and something
simple (at fault). The presence of more
a prefix (for comparison) increased
chances, but it is not required.

   Carefully (to itself does not fix), opened the case, all 
examined: the fan on the side (not very stable), turning, 
boring voltage, and the results and spark probe tester, the 
contact socket power, found fault. 

   Departed contact socket with a voltage
3.3 (probably for the CPU and GPU). In the end, of course, the 
prefix is not worked and did not burn (I wonder what criteria 
is burning?) power indicator LED1 - bright orange LED. Contact 
socket (Special bent shape) is clearly lost the stiffness (or 
were poorly positioned, assembled at the outset). 

   Learned the power module and decided vypayat
contact nest of fees to care
bend - for the greatest area of contact with the pin. Long 
tried but could not have thought impossible to separate,

and vypayal all nest. It turned out - you can, but
should be even stronger izginat and squeeze
contact, which I tried (so it's easier, perhaps, at first 
vypayat socket). Each contact is pulled out, cleaned out, bent 
and inserted, then soldered into the slot. Board power good

survived the operation, although fed to long
gradually and carefully. Also cleared out the pins of the main 
board. Put the module into place (Pins in jack included with 
the notable effort).


   Of course, everything worked without any problems
works so far. Malnutrition and
was the cause of failure from the outset, although
the percentage of disk errors is much larger than
on the PS1. Voltage drop is down to 3 V certainly will fail (if 
triggered at the same time indicator? under short-fall, 
probably will not have time or be invisible). Catch this bug is 
not easy, but you can pre-proshuntirovat feed chain and to 
evaluate stability. Spontaneity failures

indicates a total failure, and corresponds to poor nutrition as 
well. 

   After the first turn on the system requested the date and 
time, the battery is soldered t.k.vnutrenny markedly villages. 
This BT1 ML2032. I nameryal 2.3, and has approximately

10-15 minutes of work - 2.7 Q. What was enough for the internal 
clock, as since then nothing perevvodili.


   The fuse in standard sizes, but the ceramic rather than 
glass, T2AH - really two amps to the load?


   On the connector fan nameryal: 1 - 5V
2 - 0 V, 3 - 1.99V (rotation sensor? Sensor? Control voltage?).

   Built-in power supply, top view, and what
I'm in parentheses wrote himself, I can not parse 
(sn.v.kr.po.): 1 - 3.28V, 2 - 5.01V, (3,4,5) - 0V, 6 - 13.3V. 
Moreover, the plug 1 contact is measured 3.25V - marked

fall, a relatively large current, I think,
not less than 1 amp.


                    3.

  If the vibration does not work in a joystick.



   Have not raced in the NFS, and trains and found the absence 
of vibrations. In the options O.K., but Both the joystick does 
not vibrate and seem to be easier Conventional - immediately 
suspected the fuse pristavke.Proveril in the absence of 
vibration TM4 and decided to disassemble the console. My 
brother has confirmed a long-standing loss of vibration (I 
remembered that someone had something else about them saying). 


   He opened the console (the first repair of my)
somewhat different model (previously repaired
Similar PSone), mikruh like a little more, maybe that's why 
working with no problems - and soundlights (firmware). I 
remember the appointment of chips (for fun), I forgot what the 
RAM, and a ROM. Watching the food chain and find

a bunch of fuses (marked PS60x),
much as 4 pieces - all identical, almost cubic, rather big (as 
raznomelkie jumper "0" on the other, apparently 
non-proprietary), the size 2.3x2.3x3 mm, black case is written

gray vertical ellipsis, then
"1.0" and barely visible dot in the middle.
One of them does not ring, goes to the memory card and joystick 
(as well as somewhere else in the board), although the shipment 
in NFS worked ... Obviously, at 1 A. The resistance 
approximately 0.05 ohms. Would come up the copper centimeter

postings diameter 0.07 mm, but I do not exist, use one streak 
of not very thin MGTF'a. Diameter of 0.1 mm. Lightly brushing 
(thinning), the fuse is soldered in place (put termotrubochku, 
and maybe not ...), thermo wrapped a piece of open space blue 
tape, the total length of about 2 see, of course, everything 
was fine. The board (of designation), it was another 2 guard,

looks almost the same, one was not
notation (he was a total pile) and the other
- Input for food, it is "63", and
Who knows what that means, maybe he
Indeed inductance? Of course, my fuse is not present, but at 
the current 2 A will not survive long, but it's better than 
nothing! The cause of burnout, perhaps, was a partial 
depreciation of collectors vibrator joystick, and short-time 
overload, possibly with the work of both sticks together (light 
wear or closure in the conducting of collectors from crumb 
brushes). Time will tell if the fuse is blown or failures (ie 
faults, the fall from power circuit) will be frequent 
character, then it will be necessary to identify exception 
joystick and cursor - and clean it (restore), and maybe clean 
up all at once, for prevention.


KSA-7G