DIY - Production of the tail for the mouse.

<b>DIY</b> - Production of the tail for the mouse.

           Manufacturer of the tail.
  KSA-7G


   The tail of the joystick "SEGA" is too thick and hard, 
moreover prone to breakage (Due to poor quality stampings), so 
the best option - to make his (or rather, mouse ...) tail 
itself, moreover, You can do it much longer and

"Mouse-mobile". This will allow myshkovat "
away from the base unit, sitting in a chair,
on the couch ...

   Actually, I have a similar situation:
the system is at the TV, on the floor and sit
I'm on the couch - about 2 feet from the screen.

   I decided to make a tail with a margin (the system a little 
to one side, and so that slack the tail was) so that through 
him not step over (W stand). Therefore, I decided to make 
3metrovy tail. 

   Bought in the market motochek thin wire
MGTF-section 0.03 mm ¤, diameter (full,
insulated) 0.5 mm. Just in case measure up resistance: 1.5 ohms 
at 3 meters - corresponds to that on the tag section.

Until then bought some thick wire
MGTF, complete with a diameter of 0.8 mm (0.5 to 3 ohms
meter).

   Measured out the 9 wires with the stock - to 3-meter 12 cm 
of thin wire, but enough for 8 pieces on the 9 th took a thick 
wire, and decided that he will be a common (negative). On a 
sheet paper (in the box), I jotted down placement

wire cross section duct insulation -
cambric, and decided that was enough for me 2 mm internal 
diameter of cambric. 

   In the basement of the central radioPROFI I found the 
cambric (prikinuv on the eye, I decided that I was given an 
inside diameter and not a mistake ...) and bought just in case

4 meters (from rubles to 7). White, transparent, stiff, full 
diameter of approximately 2.9 mm. A little more than the tail 
of modern arms, and a little bit tougher. But in general, 
losing only slightly noticeable. 

   Looking at the tail of his claves, soft,
yellowish, translucent cambric, sorry I can not see this in the 
store. Similar to the mouse's tail, except for color was not 
inferior to modern. 

   Cutting the 3-meter isolation, missed
inside its solid Transformer
wire diameter of 0.85 mm (optimally from
permissible in this case range 0.6Ў1
mm), and pulling it out of the tube for 5 - 7 cm
(Not melted), cleared and obludil
end of 8 mm. By the way, insert the wire into the
tube was tough, had to pull
up the whole length, and straightening the folded
wire, gently slide it - slowly
and carefully so as not crushed inside.

   And here I have broken off ... Became cleaned and serves the 
(approximately 10 mm, carefully cutting off the insulation - a 
thin wire) wire clearances, and one struck me as short ... 
Kotyara effortlessly cut ... It was necessary to measure More 
thick wire, thin is not enough. Thus, the burning of nine wires 
produces a thicker than expected, but in absolute option was to 
take ... I soldered all wires together and several times 
priplavil maxima opayannogo (ostyvshego!) plot

making it more compact and thin. Despite the solder, it turned 
out thinner rope wires, those more insulation thickens ...


   Securing the end of the copper wire (from the tube - 
cambric) in small portable vise, so that opayanny site was 
available and relied on the heat-resistant surface (Not hung in 
the air), carefully soldered to the it soldered bundle (4 mm 
together to balance tow did not have time to melt and 
dissolve). I like priplavil tourniquet to the wire on top, a 
few times, warming up a soldering iron from different angles, 
giving a cool and soldering obtain a more compact and 
streamlined. Then podplavil beginning and an end to this

site to not catch or scratch
tube.

   But when I tried to pull the end loop in the pipe, he went 
so tight that I do not decided to continue ... End of trail - 
the most thick and complex place, which is tighter

of the plume. The cross-section I had a reserve
on one or two thick wires MGTF, but
is on the calculation ... Wire - not the liquid, and
would not be as freely distributed over
section! I decided that the risk of a tube integrity (excessive 
force hard soldering can refine the wall cambric, which

because of his harsh and at the load side (tread) may burst
in problem areas) and most soldering
(Thin wire MGTF can not stand
efforts and tear, any of the 7 thin veins
will fly away and start all over again - especially
if in the end - that would be a shame!). By the
same solid wire itself could not withstand
efforts and fly away with soldering ...

   In general, I've bought in the market such as thin-MGTF 
wires and replaced the thick vein on the fine. I, as decided 
earlier, it was 8 thin and 1 thick wire in the loop. Repeating 
all the above operations and getting welded with solid wire 
ribbon cable, I decided to simplify the problem of reliability. 
I disentangled and freely distribute all 9 wires from the place 
of soldering, so that they lay do not intersect on the floor. I 
think, not in vain, because they are not interfering with each 
other, gathered in single loop.


   The process itself was hvostoobrazovaniya
wonderful! The opposite (free)
the end of a hard wire, for which I tried to pull the train 
into the tube (breaking all the resistance of the copper on the 
free winding, bending pipe - making

so a big mistake, from which
time declined), I attached on the door
handle. Carefully taking the other end of the wire
(With soldering) in one hand (in this case Unraveled plume at 
this location was a little meet, taking the form of a vector 
perspective - Of which no worries), I pulled the copper wire so 
that the tubing hanging on it in the air. Preserving the 
tension, I slid a hand over a copper wire passing in place of 
solder, and then at the end about to train, holding already a 
MGTF. Thus, even the place and solder hanging loosely in air. 
Second hand, slightly more edge tubes, I grabbed her, trying 
not to compress, and maximum contact with her (for the most

surface of the hand) and pulled along a wire in
the solder side and the technology shleyfa.Blagodarya tube 
easily slipped to the diet. Its end (free - two cm from the 
hand) crawled on the solder, and I felt a palpable

effort ... I slowly began to move up, and when it has already 
gone on the train (took soldering), I felt no increase in 
resistance (maybe a little), and both hands picked up the phone 
and began to pull it plume. The wires come together and easily

were inside. I felt better
slip (the tube went from a hard wire, which is rubbed on her 
wall, making it difficult to slide). With half the length of 
the wire was already easy, I filled the entire train into a 
tube, unsolder from copper wire and temporarily fixed the tape, 
and fastened on the other hand (To free, nespayannye ends do 
not hang out). Rolled up and removed the string, I think, more 
not just come in handy. 


                                      2003

Ed.: Give the wire with a square or hexagonal crimping! And the 
three-lobed screwdriver with the corresponding screws at the 
same time ... We do not believe that progress was on the spot!