DO IT YOURSELF - We will talk about sound and about assembling the cooler yourself.

=========================================================DO SAM=====
                                                        
 [22*2!]
right now we will talk about the sound (which comes out of
Spectrum).  the thing is that I have long been indignant when
I see the spec from katoporo, something is crackling and squeaking. or - not that
so that it crackles, but it’s not like it sings...                  
                                                        
the first is, for example, when an amplifier is made on one
transistor and a corresponding speaker is attached to it,
or even cooler - two transistors and two speakers, ale -
left/right!                                           
in                                                       
stereo sound type. awesome!                             
                                                        
that's crap.                                            
                                                        
and the second is kada speck stuck to some threadto an ancient (cheap) receiver and sings through it.        
                                                        
it also happens that a spektrumist uses writing columns,
Of course they are different, big and small, cheap
and dear ones, for example, I have something in between on the table
are standing.  I haven’t turned them on for a long time, already the power supply
disappeared somewhere, they stand there for beauty's sake. call it -
screenbeat 3, they have a bass, volume, on/off and
green diode.  but there is a defect inside. sound good
but let's strive for more...                         
                                                       
whenever I connected the spec to the TV, then the sound
connected to it. It sounded good, I liked it. a
I also had (and now also have) a Vega receiver, well
there is a radio, records and two speakers.  stereo was
receiver  no one has used it for a long time, of course, and
he just stood there. old, but beautiful. and here I am
I tried connecting to it. as I remember right now, meter
shielded wire, there was simply no other way.         
                                                        
what, verycomfortable.                                    
                                                        
well, when I soldered everything and turned it on, I just went nuts -
it was such an awesome sound!!!  and it was not only a matter of
power (and it was also felt well), the most
The main thing is the sound quality itself. nothing like me
I just didn't hear it. that's how I became a spec user -
to the TV through scart and speakers on the sides. and I'm with the keyboard
on the sofa.                                              
                                                        
it was very cool, I remember it forever.     
                                                        
but time passed, the spec broke and gradually
I figured it out, that TV was not in my room, and
the receiver was bulky, so it was removed through
somewhere for a while so as not to interfere.                
                                   
but they didn't throw it away.                                         
                                                        
a new spec I originallybegan to design for
desktop version, so drag the receiver under the table
Unfortunately, it wouldn’t have worked out in any way - he even went there
probably wouldn’t fit in, but if it did, there would be room under it
(table) there really wouldn’t be any left.                           
                                                        
and then Pasha gave me a 25-watt low-frequency speaker,
such an impressive appearance. and I thought - what if
make an amplifier and speaker with this speaker? suddenly
Come on, it will be cool!                             
                                                        
the column is written separately in fpl-8, but now I’ll tell you
about the amplifier. rejoice, speckman! today you are not at all
you need to have a lot of knowledge to create it,
There's such an awesome board to make, there's a bunch of transistors,
there are a bunch of rubber bands and the rest, then you need to configure something there,
adjust...                                         
                                                        
for a long time now all this has been produced in the form of various
microcircuits  (micruha = amplifier) you are left with its current
select, connect everything to it and place it in the case,
which you made yourself or from somethingready.        
                                                        
well, of course, connect several resistors to it and
capacitors will still come, this is nonsense, everything is possible
make it on a small scarf.                            
                                                        
therefore, especially for real spektrumists the company
philips came up with a mikrukha tda1557, so I can’t go with it anymore
You don’t have to hook anything up (just connectors to the inputs) and that’s it!
it operates from 12-18 volts, it has two bridge channels,
each 22 watts.  right now it costs us only 70
rubles, very often they put it in car radios (it’s for
seems to have been developed), so small,
black, and two holes on the sides.                       
                                                        
yes, plus a very sensitive input, such that you can
immediately connect a spec to it without preamps and that’s it
will be ok.                                               
                                                        
well, do you want this?                                    
                                                        
for those who do not understand the power of amplifiers (yes
and I’m not really either), I’ll say - I have one of hers
22w channel kada works at full power, then the table
vibrates dynamically, or rather not it, but what’s on it
I find that my soldering iron especially suffers
aluminum stand - rattles incessantly, you bastard!
and in general there is a lot of shaking in the room                 
 and interferes with normal listening to music. although this is even
nice.                         
                                                        
flattering.                                                 
                                                        
high-quality, soft, wonderful sound, in short, I like
I like it very much.    anyway, that's where she's at
connect:                                   
                                                        
 +---+---+----------# POWER +18V MAX! 
      3| 10| 11|                            
                +--+---+---+-------+                    
        L IN   1|     TCA1557      |4      L OUT        
        >---||--|                  |----+               
                |                  |   +|/|             
                |                  |6  +||             
        R IN  13|                  |----+               
        >---||--|                  |----+  R OUT        
                |                  |7  +|/|             
                |                  |   +||             
                |                  |----+             |                  |9                   
 +--+---+---+-------+                    
 2|  5|  8|                            
 +---+---+----------# GROUNC          
                 
as can be seen from the picture, the first and thirteenth legs are
left and right channel inputs, connected via
capacitors at 0.22uf, to the fourth and sixth
connect the left speaker, and to the seventh and ninth -
right channel.  By the way, you can connect four
dynamics of ten watts, through a condenser at 10OOuf*10v,
a plus for the mikruha, and the second contact of the speaker is on gnd,
It’s unlikely that you will need it.            
             
             
              
the second, fifth and eighth legs are connected to gnd, and to
third, tenth and eleventh supply voltage.
It consumes, as it seems to me, no more than three amperes,
so you need to dig up the appropriate trance. if so, then
TS180 is also possible, it is bulky, but not cool and
high quality   regarding nutrition, of course, we need to put
capacitor   in the same car radios with her always
They put it at 22OOuf, mine costs 10000. The diode doesn’t last long
goes out when you turn it off.                                
                                                        
power wires are thick.                            
                                                        
oh yes, you probably also need a volume control?
its input impedance is 30 kilo-ohms, which is quite high,
therefore, a variable resistor of 47 kOhm or more is suitable.
Now it’s not connected to a wire break, but here’s how:
the central output is to the entrance of the mikruhi, the outermost one to the ground,
and the third - to the signal source.                         
                                                        
and if you put it in the gap, then the mega-ohm resistor won't do anything
extinguishes, tried it. haven't been prompted yet.                    
                                                        
Of course, you need to screw the mikruha to the radiator. what kind of db is he?
I can’t explain the area, so choose
experimentally, I just screwed it from three
healthy trans, so black, so how can she not
old, then it doesn’t become hot (hot =
roasting). in short, maximum warm.                    
                                                        
you need to make a case for all this, if all this
it will just be lying on the table, then it’s better not to do it
it sucks so much. you can make it (the body a doesn't suck) from
plywood, how to make it - I told you in one of
hi-tech. Nothing as complicated as I think.              
                                                        
In general, there are a huge number of such
microcircuits with different parameters, you can find them
some kind of reference book, it will be called something like
"amplifier microcircuits". there will be both basic switching circuits and basic
parameters.  Flip through it, take a look - maybe there’s something you like.
all sorts of stk, kia, ba, etc. I just talked about
tda1557 ptm that it is quite powerful, and the sound is excellent and
nothing needs to be suspended. and costs little.    
                                                        
there is such a mikruha - tda7294, also popular, worth
a little more expensive - 100 rubles, consumes 30v/5a,
single-channel, its nominal power is 140 watts!!!
you can't get that kind of trance current, and the speaker is worth it
there are a lot of these (even used ones). although who knows how
fate has turned... (like you can cheat somewhere).    
                                                        
well, I have everything. I was going for a walk...                       

-------------------------Self-assembly of the cooler
                                                        
 If you have a Spectrum and it gets terribly hot, if you
you want him to live warm, but you cooler oh how hexo-
you want to buy or there are no other ones in the city, then look
next:                                                   
                                                        
 Let's start with consumables:                         
 The most important thing is to get the engine that propeller
it will spin. Yonny (engine) can be obtained in any
whose toy, and the very steering wheel, dug it out of the old one
"sidigryza" or from a broken one, there's this engine head
moves back and forth                             
 Next comes the problem of creating a propeller, which can be created
cook from anything, but best of all from the bottom of a plastic
howl of a bottle, the worst thing is a 0.5 liter bottle of Sprite     
                                                        
 Cut out the bottom of the bottle 2-3 cm from the very bottom, well
so that the water level, if you pour it into the cut part,
was equal to these cahtumetpam. Then we cut something out
similar to triangles located on a convex plane,
this is already in space. The bottle has a bottom with some non-
understandable, sometimes with depressions, sometimes with lunges. Duck interests us
so that this something blows air when rotating, for this
you need to cut out the above-mentioned figs according to the following lines -
niyam:from the very beginning to the end... from this... well... by
the following principle: in the section of each blade there should be
the following crap will appear, working on this principle,
                 and how you pervert it is your business, 
 '  at your own discretion...(see picture)
                                                   
 '  The cut plane is designed on
 __ <-  plane perpendicular to the plane
 '  table if there is a cut-out bottom b-
                    put the backs, well, like a bottle
uncut would have stood (I unscrewed everything)                     
;Arrows indicate the direction of air during rotation    
                                                        
 We made the propeller, all that remains is it with the engine ckohek-
pull and push into the body, supply power               
                                                        
 A few words about the motor, if you use a motor not made of LED
ryza thenMost likely, the young one will cause interference
so that they do not exist, the maximum surface of the engine must be closed
dig with foil, it is best to do this after attaching
to the holding crap that holds the engine in the housing
child, which, in turn, can be screwed to the body
it's going to hold on, you can glue it (crap it's
sorry)                                          
 If the digital device does not cause interference, you can use it
fasten without any doubt the holding crap, through
tbom of adhesive tape, you can also use super glue to stick to it, move
zhku      
                                                        
  In the very center of the propeller you need to melt the hole
with a linen awl so that the diameter of the hole is slightly smaller than the diameter
on the rotating axis, in the engine. Then npon will sit tight
and will rotate due to the engine                       
 It is better to place the prop so that it blows towards the engine,
in the end, both will take up less space     
                                                        
 This miracle must be secured in the body so that from oneend of the body, the air would wander into the other, and to suck
this air from outside could easily cooler, it needs holes
do it nearby in the building, if there are none nearby   
                                                        
 Regarding nutrition. Everything, again, depends on
where did the engine come from?
twist a 520 ohm cable and connect the cooler to twelve
volts through this resistor                     
 In the case of a conventional motor, you need to have less resistance
lenition, otherwise it will not unwind, infection, or do
a starter that will spin up                     
 Without a starter, you will need a resistor with a resistance of 23 to
40 ohms, power not less than 1 watt. Resistance, which
what needs to be installed depends on the current strength in the wires, if
This is equal to 2-4 amperes, you can set the indicated resistances higher
expression, otherwise you need to remember the formula pi...o! Oma!  
 U=ir:U=I*R, where U is the voltage on the resistor, in our
case it is equal to: 12-3=9 volts. I-current strength, this is what you test-
Check the rum, or approximately, according to the size of the transformer. R-
resistance itself...                                   
Depending on how accurately you find the middle
propa, and how you make a hole in it depends on the level
line of cracking from the self-cooler                           
 a                           
  ...                        
 Everything seems to have been perverted
                by matubam novel "how to make a helicopter"
BCr created